Tanzania - Ngorongoro Conservation / Ndutu (days 5-6)

Next up was the Ngorongoro Conservation / Ndutu area, right next to the Serengeti (there are white posts set up to distinguish which is which).  This area was covered by up to 50-feet of volcanic ash from the collapse of the Ngorongoro Crater millions of years ago.  Now it’s covered with short grass and shrubs and there were animals grazing everywhere.  Apparently the nutritious grass grows up to several feet, but when you have millions of animals eating it, I guess it gets quite short!  

The plains around Ndutu and Lake Masek are where the herds of wildebeest and zebra re-group, regain their strength, mate and have their calves before continuing their 2,000 KM migration north in April.  The great “wildebeest migration” is the movement of approximately 1.4 million of the [Serengeti's] wildebeest, accompanied by large numbers of zebra, and smaller numbers of Grant's gazelle, Thomson's gazelle, eland and impala. These animals move in an annual pattern which is fairly predictable. They migrate throughout the year, constantly seeking fresh grazing and water. The precise timing of the wildebeest migration is dependent upon the rainfall patterns each year.

In the Conservation area you’re allowed to drive “off-road” during the short dry season, which is when we visited.  We saw millions of little dots in the distance, which were not trees but more animals (wildebeest or zebra).  At one point, Chris turned left off of the main road and then we were just blazing our own trail – there was no road?!   

Aha, we made it back to proper tire tracks again, which is as close to a “road” as were going to get.  We drove toward “trees” in the distance, but that’s all we saw.  It was literally miles and miles of short grass, shrubs, animals and our vehicle.  Shaun and I were trying to figure out “where” we were going and “where” our lodge was, but we saw nothing but grass and animals in all directions, it was eerie and I was having a bit of anxiety!   We drove for about an hour and I think we were one step beyond being in the “middle of nowhere”.  However, we then came across a research vehicle and some lions!  Go figure.  Since you can drive off-road here, we could literally pull up right next to them!  Unbelievable.   

After driving a bit more in the vast nothing-ness, through trees on a road-turned-river and then a short-cut along the lake (whaaaat?), we found a sign for “Special Camp 9”, the Lemala Ndutu Tented Camp (http://www.lemalacamp.com/ndutu.htm), set up on a seasonal basis for the wildebeest/zebra migration (water is trucked in and it runs on solar energy).  The camp apparently called our driver earlier in the evening to make sure we were on our way and not lost!  We were greeted again with cold towels and juice at the camp, so refreshing.  Gotta get the layer of dust off!  We took a lovely “safari bucket shower” where they combine heated water from the campfire with equal parts cold water, thus creating the perfect bathing temperature (don’t ask me, it just works).  There is one string for “on” and you pull it the other way for “off”.  It’s actually quite clever!  The staff made sure you had enough water etc., they’re so attentive.   

Now we were ready for the sunset and drinks around the campfire!   The sky was lit up with vibrant oranges and pinks, it was spectacular.   

The walk to the main dining tent was much closer here than in the Tarangire, but we were still escorted when it was dark.  Our canvas tents had an outdoor sitting area, wood floors and all the amenities of a regular hotel room, just in a much more “wild” setting!  Instead of a telephone you get a radio and the power strip for charging batteries etc. was located in the dining tent (just like at Oliver’s).  I didn’t dry my hair or wear make-up for the better part of a week, wow.  But we were clean and very comfortable!  The charismatic staff and the other guests here at Lemala made our 2-night stay quite memorable.  We met an interesting Swiss couple traveling with their daughter who was working for the UN in Burundi.  They tried to speak to me in Swiss-German though, which I don’t know!  There was also an older couple from Australia who were very friendly and a German couple as well.  Molly got to practice her German but I stuck with English.  On the second night we met an art dealer from Manhattan, who seemed a bit hoity-toity and was traveling sans his family.  We were by far the youngest travelers.  The food here was especially outstanding.  The soup came in heated bowls, all the courses had garnishes and were truly SF restaurant worthy – so fancy and yummy for being in the middle of the bush.  What they’re able to accomplish with the seasonal tents is astounding (it apparently takes approximately 2-weeks to set up).  Everything felt quite lavish, considering there were lions grunting during the night and other animals roaming freely all around!  The setting was indeed incredible.

The sounds of nature here were not as loud as in the Tarangire, but I awoke to “grunting” during the night.  Umm, I really didn’t know what it was until the staff told me the next morning it was 3 lions about 200 yards from our camp!  After a very early tea/coffee wake-up service, we were off on a 6:30 AM game drive.  It was a very atypical and misty morning and was actually quite chilly.  We could see about 10 yards in front of us and that was it.   

We saw some zebras, sleeping foxes and then a jeep that was lost – so we took him back to the main road near the lake to get his bearings (use of the word “road” is being used loosely as something with proper tire tracks to follow).  Considering you’re allowed to go off-road and basically drive wherever and through whatever you want, which feels pretty crazy, I’m surprised more people don’t get lost!  I do not recommend doing a self-drive safari here!  We then saw a mama cheetah with her 4 cubs stalking a gazelle for a bit but then moved on.  

There were also a few cape buffalo in the mist and then it started to brighten and warm up. 

   

We drove to a “tree” known to be a lion hang-out.  How Chris found this particular “tree” is beyond us since everything looks the exact same, and although we didn’t see any lions, there were definitely tracks around it.  After that, we off-roaded through the plains and headed to a marshy area where there was a lone male lion lounging in the sun.  We saw tons of lions, but they were usually sleeping or being lazy!   

Then we saw some really cute bat-eared foxes (really *big* ears) and another male lion, again lounging/sleeping.   

Now it was time for a pit-stop and when it was Shaun’s turn, Chris started driving away.  We were like, umm, Chris, Shaun is still out there!  Poor Shaun thought he was getting left behind in the bush.  It was pretty funny for us (not so funny for Shaun though)!  Then things got really exciting.  I spotted a brown dot in the distance and it was not 1, but 2 cheetahs with a fresh kill!  They were feasting on a wildebeest.  We could literally hear the bones cracking as they ate around the ribs.  They are very polite eaters, taking turns and were careful not to puncture the stomach.  It was quite fascinating, and for a while, we were the first and only vehicle (the drivers talk to one another on the radio so they can share if there’s anything exciting to see).   

On our way back for lunch we saw more hyenas, jackals and of course, wildebeest and zebra everywhere.  Today’s lunch may’ve been the best food we ate.  It was some sort of lamb moussaka with a carrot salad.  Absolutely delicious!  No one talked as we were all busy stuffing our faces!  We then rested, had afternoon tea and muffins and went on a late afternoon game drive.

 

 

We saw another lion (female), bunnies, giraffes, hippos, birds and then the highlight, a family of 10 lions lounging in the sand (1 male, 2 females and 7 cubs).  Wow!  They’re so funny – there were tons of vehicles around but they just laid there, some on their backs with their legs splayed and others trying to get dad to play with them (he just ignored them).   

   

Next, there were more cheetahs with a kill and on our way back to camp we passed the 3 lions who I had heard grunting the night before.  They apparently like to stay near our camp!  It was a very busy and truly fabulous day – we saw and learned so much.

  

On Monday we awoke to a beautiful sunrise, but I heard the lions grunting during the night again, which kept me awake for a bit (I don’t know how everyone else slept so soundly, they were loud)!  It’s such an odd sound, like someone at the gym trying to do his last rep with a weight setting that’s too heavy.  After breakfast we received a happy send-off where the entire Lemala crew came out, including the chef, to wish us well.  So sweet!

 

By this time, we thought we had gotten pretty good at spotting animals and knowing what they were.  In several instances though, we ended up pointing out logs or rocks or termite mounds in the distance that looked like animals.  Thus, Chris helped Matt and Shaun coin a new safari company “The Termite Mound Sporting Safari Company – Satisfaction Guaranteed!”  The boys thought they were so funny.  Well, it actually was pretty funny…..