Verjus. L’Agape Substance. Le Machon.
While in Paris we took full advantage of the amazing cuisine and luckily we walked a lot to keep the extra pounds we were eagerly digesting in check! Matt spent a fair amount of time researching online before we left, and found 2 wonderful restaurants for our culinary adventure.
Verjus
We started at Verjus (1st Arr.) for my birthday, woo hoo! It was a set tasting menu with wine pairing, and the staff spoke perfect English (perhaps because the chef is from Boston and the host had an Australian accent). It was an intimate and cozy place, in a 19th-century house overlooking the Palais-Royal with wood tables and mis-matched wood chairs (different styles, different heights), giving it an eclectic/comfortable yet stylish feel. The food was beautifully presented (but not overly frou-frou), fresh, flavorful and delicious. We tried things like “fingerling chips, chive flower, chive cream, trout roe from banka” and “duck breast from pomarez, orange segment, rye seed, mustard greens, smoked celery root skin”. The service was attentive, but not in-your face -- plates and wine came at a comfortable pace and everything was carefully described to us by the friendly staff. Matt definitely found a true gem with Verjus! It was the perfect birthday dinner celebration and I'd go back in a hearbeat! (http://verjusparis.com/).
L'Agape Substance
On our second night, we went in the opposite direction and took a leap of faith at L’Agagé Substance (7th Arr.). It’s a sleek, modern and minimalistic place hidden behind frosted glass with only 24 seats total. The walls and ceiling are covered with mirrors and the floor is done in clear oak, while the space is illuminated by neon. There is a long “family style” table in the middle, which is where we sat, and an open kitchen at the end. The menu was a “carte blanche” tasting menu, where we were shown the ingredients that would be used in the 17 to 22 dishes we would enjoy that evening. We saw items like egg, pigeon (yes, p-i-g-e-o-n), monkfish, black sesame and chocolate, among others. We were advised the menu could even change during the course of the evening (perhaps the chef’s mood would change), and we may not get the same things as our neighbors. We didn’t do the wine pairing this time, but started with 2 glasses of champagne that were offered to us (should’ve asked the price as it ended up costing $25/glass!!), and then moved on to a lovely bottle of white wine that paired well with each dish. One website describes the staff as “gastronomic ninjas” which is actually quite accurate! The black-clad wait staff uses the mirrored ceiling to clear plates as well as serve them simultaneously with the person you’re dining with. It was a very choreographed and efficient, effective service. There is definitely no “down time” for the staff with so many different plates to expedite! We tasted some of the most creatively prepared food we’ve ever eaten. Sometimes it was hard to tell where the food ended and the where the food vessel began! It was a unique experience, with flavors we’ve never tasted before presented with artistic flair. Overall, it was an adventure of a lifetime for our taste buds! (http://www.agapesubstance.com/#/en/home/)
Ordering wine from an iPad !
The unique food creations of Chef David Toutain.
Lightly cooked egg, which was a highlight for me! Super amazing.
Pigeon!
On our last night we ended up staying in the St. Germain area again and went to a cute little family-run bistro we walked by that looked “fun”. It was small and crowded, but the host/server was friendly and offered us the last table for 2, so we took it! It reminded us of a cozy restaurant that’s a favorite of ours back home in the Marina, but with Parisian flair. The menu was written on chalboards, and we had heartier fare this time (duck and salmon entrees), and both were large portions and very satisfying. Pretty basic, but good. Everything was reasonably priced and we enjoyed a bottle of white wine to go along with our dinner. The doors opened up to the street so we could watch the hustle and bustle of the passersby as well. It was Sunday night, but all the restaurants still seemed to be quite “happening” and busy.
There's always room for ice cream!
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